Friday, 1 June 2018

Photos from Chile

Dancers celebrate National Day on Chiloe Island

Seno Icecap

Cowboy at Estancia Eberhart, near Puerto Natales
Ainsley with the  cannons of the Spanish fortifications at Corral the waterfront before attending a concert in Frutillar
In the Ultima Frontera Restaurant, Valdivia

Sponges of Patagonia

Pelagic heteropod in Patagonia

Anemones - Patagonia

Photos from New Zealand

Picton Waterfront

Gannet nesting area west coast of the North Island of New Zealand

Jen Urqhart's 'Cobb Cottage' Nelson

Katie in rain-repelling garbage bag

Weka in the snow - Mt Arthur
Maurice in the snow - Mt Arthur Tablelands

Anchorage/divesite near Picton

Photos from 'Down Under'

diver cleaning wreck- burning & sinking opposite Trav in AUS

Opera house Cake in Sydney AUS

Kurung-Gai National Park Cowan Creek N of Sydney

Ms. Louris Elms - Covent Garden opera diva at her 85th party

Sign we left at Middle Percy I AUS
Tiger Shark - Swain Reefs Coral Sea AUS
Deb and Di on 'Ella' Australia

Snake-eel - one 'attacked Larry at the Swain Reefs

Closing Notes

Causeway Marina, Victoria BC Canada

We are tied up to the dock in the middle of the summer festivities which include masses of tourists buying handicrafts,  musician and bagpipers, artists selling portraits of people and the city and many boats ferrying people across the harbour or out to go Whale Watching. We'll be here until August when we start travelling along this coast with a number of relatives or friends.

A few notes to finish with: Thank you to ALL those who voted for Dr. Vreni Haussermann for her to receive the honours due her on International Women's Day. She wrote me to say thanks to all of you, and to relate that " My video was by far the most respected one, but Abe Rleider still won the Meteroitenforschering (Honours). "

I have started to input all the information about our 50 dives in Patagonia (split between 2007-8 and 2017) into MS Excel - so far I have learned how to input the information, and have coded 3 dives in the same place at Caleta Ideal. However, I still need to learn how to extract useful information using the data. Vreni asks me to share the dive photos we've collected and thinks they will be useful for her and her team at the Huinay Research Station in Puerto Montt Chile.

I will be sending an article about the unique culture of Chiloe Island off to Bluewater Cruising Association. I have been able to write several previous articles about our experiences over the last 25 months in the club magazine entitled "Currents".

There were many highlights to the tripincluding meeting up with new and old friends. We want to especially thank people who hosted us - either during the trip or when we visited Canada (and - in my case - England). Thanks to Ron and Sarah Koyich and the beautful rest we had in Noosa, Australia.

Maurice and Katie Cloughley who shared the huts on the Mt Arthur Tablelands in New Zealand, and to Christine Lindsay and Terry who shared their boat at Gulf Harbour Marina just North of Auckland and took us to see the gannet colony.

In Chile, thanks to Oscar and Karin who invited us out to their farm where we saw prize-winning red angus cattle and guanacos and relaxed in a hot tub! We enjoyed a typical Chilote meal with the Matalunas family.

On his trip to retieve vital boat parts here in Victoria, he was hosted by Rae and Frida Audette and in Calgary by his sister Kathy and her husband Larry Laderoute. In Deep River Ontario Canada, my brother Paul and my sister-in-law Ann generously allowed me to stay, eat and meet their friends when I spent time there helping my daughter Hope, husband Darin and their children Ainsley, Brynn and Seven as they welcomed a new family member: Wolfgang. I stayed with friends Nancy and Douglas Sturdevant in Ottawa and went to hear Canada's Arts Centre Orchestra with fabulous Canadian pianist Louis Lortie playing Mozart's 'dark' Concerto in C Minor.

I was taken around Norfolk 'Broads' by Vicky and Alan Helby on their sailboat - staying and playing baroque music in their cottage and at the homes of Shelagh Aitken and Peter Davies  and of Elaine Mordaunt (all in London).

Among photographic highlights of the trip, we especially remember the following:

Diving in the Whitsundays and the outer reefs of the GBR; sailing in Pittwater with Deb, Leah and Di on SV Ella ; celebrations for Louris Elms 85th birthday in Sydney;  Mt. Arthur Tablelands; playing the pianos in Nelson of Wai and of Jen Urqhart in her lovely little Cobb Cottage; the gannet colony; diving near Picton N.Z.; living in Valdivia for the winter; visiting the Prochelle farm; National Day in Castro on Chiloe Island; our 20 dives in Patagonia and the spectacular. lonely anchorages; the Torres mountains and the Estancia Eberhart anchorage with it's horses, cattle and cowboys. In Hawaii, we watched fireworks and met up with old friends - 'Aloha' Barbie, David and Buddy and their little dog Louis.

Thank you to all the friends and family and also to those of you who have followed this 'blog' - thanks to those who have written us although it was impossible for us to write back ... sorry and all the best! More of our favorite photos from the trip will follow in two photographic blog tributes.

Fireworks in Honolulu viewed from the cockpit of Traversay III

Wednesday, 30 May 2018

It's always something ...

On a "short" voyage at the beginning of the nineties, I sailed Traversay II from Canada to the Marquesas to Hawaii and back home over a summer. At Nuku Hiva I met Marv and Sue on their beautiful boat "Susitna".

Fast forward to 2010 when Mary Anne and I visited Marv and Sue at their B & Breakfast on Te Ngaire Bay on the north shore of North Island, New Zealand: "Why did you stop cruising on Susitna?" I asked. "It was always SOMETHING" was the reply.

And so it is with us. Three days before finishing our ocean crossing at Neah Bay, Washington, the refrigerator died. The freezer, a separate thing, was still fine. Various ministrations with vacuum pumps, dry air from SCUBA tanks (I don't have the recommended nitrogen), more extended vacuuming and a recharge rendered the fridge serviceable again.

Then our visit to the museum of pre-Columbian artifacts in the Neah Bay museum was canceled due to too much wind for us to safely maneuver in the unfamiliar marina ... so we stayed anchored. No sooner was the decision made to stay safely anchored then the US Coast Guard turned up to do a safety inspection on our vessel.

This was quite un-traumatic. The boarding party were well dressed, courteous and efficient. A few minor compliance issues were addressed in which we had complied with the spirit though not the letter of the rules. The only warning that rankled was the caution that our life jackets were not US Coast Guard approved "as required". They were, in fact, high end SOLAS life jackets approved by Transport Canada as required on a Canadian registered vessel under Canadian law. Should we have different life jackets for each country we visit? Do the big Chinese freighters have US rather than Chinese life jackets? Ah well, it was only a warning, but it reminded me of the recent news story in which a Canadian student was arrested in the eastern US for driving without a licence being told "Ontario licenses are nor valid here."

To top things off, that new/failed/warranty repaired alternator on the engine died again today. Relief was instant when I discovered the belts were totally slack and a hex bolt was lying in the bilge. I really should have used a lock washer the first time! But the alternator is now again up and running.

Tomorrow (insh'allah as the saying goes) we will find ourselves back in Victoria, BC, 25 months after setting sail. Nineteen miles to go!

At 2018-05-31 00:54 (utc) our position was 48°09.68'N 123°43.51'W

Monday, 28 May 2018


Traversay III anchored in Neah Bay, Washington today after an 18 day sail from Makua Bay, Oahu, Hawaii.

At 2018-05-28 23:11 (utc) our position was 48°22.58'N 124°36.63'W

Saturday, 26 May 2018

About our Pacifc Ocean Trip : May 2016-May 2018

'New things are always presented for the delight of (our) curiosity, lest the threadbare common objects should make him weary.'

Linnaeus the great Swedish biologist expressed this thought - which also suits Traversay III and us - her crew - very well. We're getting weary (so is Traversay) and we're looking forward to being in the familiar waters of home. It has made us happy to have been able to share some of the delights and curiosities which we've encountered by writing this blog. Thank you for reading. After a few more entries we'll be saying farewell - it's been our custom to stop writing the blog once we're in home waters. All the best in finding your own delights and curiosities!

While Larry has been busy fixing the 'fridge and identifying what was wrong with the generator, I've been looking over our files and have assembled the following 'specifics' about our trip. Please note sums are as accurate as I can make them. At times, our days were partitioned and I did not account for fractions!

# of days altogether: 759
# days on passage: 171
# different anchorages: 95
# days anchored out: 185
# days tied to a dock: 389
# different Marinas: 13 so far
1) Breakwater Marina Townsville AUS
2) Keppel Bay Marina Rosslyn Bay AUS
3) Mooloolaba Marina AUS
4) Raby Bay Marina AUS
5) Horizon Shores Marina AUS
6) Nelson Bay Marina AUS
7) Bobbinhead Marina AUS
8) Nelson Bay Marina New Zealand
9) Waikawa Marina NZ
10) Picton Marina NZ
11) Club de Yates Valdivia Chile
12) Marina Quinched Chile
13) Ala Wai Marina Oahu, Hawaii USA
14) Either Neah Bay Marina or Port Angeles, WA USA
15) Causeway Marina Victoria BC Canada

# scuba dives: 52 total : 27 warm (Aus); 5 moderate : N.Z. (18C) ; 20 cold : Chile (9-10C)
# scuba photos taken (approx. 2600), edited and species identification: (approx.) 1680
# land photos taken - v approx. 30% edited and good: AUS :1,000 N.Z. : 600 Chile: 2,000 Hawaii: 8
# of nautical miles : 25,000 (46,000 km)
NB statute miles are smaller than nautical miles at a ratio of about 6:7
Distance around the world at the equator: 21,600 nautical miles
Our average speed : 10 km/hr
Sailing: 95% on all lengthy passages 5% on inshore passages … we motored many miles along the coasts of Patagonia, New Zealand and Australia. We often attain faster speeds in sailing than the motored vessels we pass (not that we EVER race!)

At 2018-05-26 15:16 (utc) our position was 47°29.61'N 132°08.58'W