Thursday, 18 September 2014

Anchored Out

Cadboro Bay, Victoria
We're anchored off the Royal Victoria Yacht Club ... we'll tie up to our usual place in front of the Empress Hotel tomorrow. We've had a wonderful summer and are grateful that we were able to complete our plans and that all went well. Best wishes to all our friends and fellow sailors for the winter.
Mary Anne & Larry
Traversay III

Junior sailors racing in the Bay

Tuesday, 16 September 2014

Our Communications

Sidney BC
Traversay III NE Pacific Circuit 2014
We're nearly finished with our voyage for this year. Soon we'll be returning to our home port, we'll be visiting relatives and friends. We won't be 'blogging' again for a long time.

Before we go, I want to explain a few facts (as I understand them) about our communications (or lack thereof). Larry has patiently explained all these issues to me a number of times, and I regret that I will probably STILL be wrong. However, those of you who have known him for a long time will realize that he is a navigational and electronics genius. He was winning the right to program room-sized computers at the University when we were in Grade 8.

We can post our blog and location (along with very small photos) everywhere. We can normally send text-only messages and receive them at our gmail address. But sometimes this only happens with a great expenditure of money using the Sat-phone. We CANNOT RESPOND to our blog.We update the small photos with higher resolution or additional photos when we get to places with hi-speed internet.

ON THE ABOVE MAP (April-September 20, 2014)
We can post Blogs and Locations and very small photos. We can receive and respond to personal gmail messages. We cannot respond to messages on our Blog. Sometimes we need to use a Satphone to send our messages.

 In these locations we were able to use cell phone but with high roaming charges. A- Port Townsend 3 days B- Monterey 3 days and San Diego 3 days D- Hawaii in Honolulu we had a week (no phone coverage E of Honolulu) E- King Cove 3 days
 In Ensenada Mexico we had erratic hi-speed at the marina. However, we could also make short International calls from the Marina Office ... 3 weeks

F-Prince Rupert Hi-speed; cellphone coverage - we were there about 5 days
G-Bella Bella - cell worked for 20  minutes to send out blog H-I Usually the cell worked and sometimes we've had hi-speed at the marina

This is also a sign meaning hi-speed internet

In The ARCTIC last year - once we left Upernavik Greenland, we had a struggle to remain connected. Only wealthy boats (such as Libelulle which had Inmarsat Fleet Broadband - at an equipment cost of $12,000 and $12/minute connect costs) were able to get information in and out easily.  We all shared information. In our case, we were fortunate to have our friend David Lloyd from Edmonton who knew how to condense the ice charts and other information we needed. However we did spend $2400 on the Satphone over the Passage as often the short-wave single-sideband failed to work.

Monday, 15 September 2014

Sunshine Coast BC

We spent a wonderful 2 nights tied to the magnificent new government dock at Gibsons Landing ... right in the middle of this busy little community and magnificent because, unlike many docks, it is the same height as the deck of our boat. The Sunshine Coast is on the mainland of the province of British Columbia but can only be reached by boat. Most people come here by ferry and so have we in times past. In fact, this is the first time Traversay III has visited 'the Coast'.
A calm moment in the Brahms
Bob and Karen selecting songs
Richard and daughter Becky
Kathleen and Ed
Kathleen, Shelley and Josephine
Many friends from the past wanted to see her and it turned into a feast of music and food. At the 'Boat Show' on Friday night, after a little wine the guests were tricked by Larry into a sing-along. My great friend violinist Kathleen was cajoled into taking up the fiddle and launching into a rousing rendition of one of Brahms' Hungarian Dances (danced by Larry in trued Cossack style!) Kathleen had included me as pianist, harpsichordist and organist when she started the 'Seacoast Chamber Players' in the 90's. Other guests that night included our neighbours  at the dock Richard Till and daughter Becky on  MY ISLAND - a beautiful seaworthy steel boat built by Richard himself.  On Saturday we had a reunion with Kathleen's husband Ed at their home and some violin/piano music - Bach, Mozart, Bartok, Ravel - we then went on to visit  Josephine Hammond (soprano) for a musical marathon of of Mendelssohn, Schumann and a read-through of Pergolesi's Stabat Mater (performed some years ago with Jo and mezzo-soprano Shelley Dillon in the vocal roles).
As we ate the beautiful dinner prepared by Jo and contributed to by all (except Larry and myself who were treated like visiting royalty) we looked out across the waters to Keats Island and to one of the Hammond boats tied to a mooring ball. Jo's son Erik has taken over his parents log-salving business plus helps operate a water-taxi service. We were privileged to view his new second-hand aluminum vessel - destined to be re-configured as a liveaboard boat to take his young family on exciting adventures along this BC Coast.

Erik Hammond's new boat


Thursday, 11 September 2014

Princess Louisa Inlet

These 9 photos are worth more than 1,000 words to describe our 2-night stay.
Approaching Malibu Rapids

Malibu Resort
Queen's Reach
Evening Peace over the Inlet

Peak amidst the clouds

Princess Louisa Inlet

 Sailboat enters in the evening

Chatterbox Falls

Monday, 8 September 2014

Sailing South

Mary Anne and Sea Star
Sea Pen
Since leaving Prince Rupert behind, we managed to fit in 3 SCUBA dives.  One was in an area new to us: Hurricane Island in the Hakai recreation area; the other two at the Walker Group of islands at the north end of Queen Charlotte Strait.

The Hurricane Island dive featured a wide variety of rockfish; the Walker Group featured a wild profusion of colourful invertebrates.  There were sponges, tunicates, different sorts of crabs, nudibranchs and sea stars a meter and a half across and the ever-present beautiful plumose anemone.  It brought back fond memories of our dives many years ago in nearby God's Pocket and Nakwatko Rapids.

As we headed south from our dives toward a rendezvous with Richie Penner and his wife Lillian in their power-boat PRAIRIE OTTER, we were passed by a nearby pod of Orca Whales.

Lillian, Richie and PRAIRIE OTTER
But back to PRAIRIE OTTER:   Richie along with his two sisters Anita and Leona are the children of Mary Anne's father's best friend from his boyhood in Russia.  Mary Anne used to play at their farm when she was a child and hadn't seen Richie for some
50 years!  Of course a shared anchorage and dinner together was arranged!

A bit south of that rendezvous, some careful calculations were required with departure times to avoid fighting massive currents along Jonstone Strait.  Further along, the timing is even more critical at the Dent, Gillard and Yuculta Rapids where the wrong timing makes the channels either impassable or quite dangerous with eddies and overfalls.

Approaching the Rapids
We managed to scurry through the last of the tidal rapids at the right time, and thus unscathed, and headed to Walsh Cove in the Desolation Sound area.  There we tied alongside Bob and Anita's MOONDANCE. Anita, mentioned before, is Richie's sister and a childhood friend of Mary Anne.  Just to complete this family rendezvous, Leona and her husband Lee were also aboard MOONDANCE as guests.

Anita, Mary Anne and Leona
We spent three nights tied together at Walsh Cove and at Isabel Bay in Okeover Inlet.  There were shared meals, hikes in the forest and swims in the sea.  Altogether a very good time amid beautiful scenery.

We are now on our way again with plans to head up Jervis Inlet to revisit Princess Louisa Inlet - a beautiful mountain circled pool that we have not seen since the early 1990's.

Thursday, 28 August 2014

Eyes on ...

… the Northwest Passage … where friends from last year's passage - on ARCTIC TERN- and Canadian friends from London - on GJOA - are trying to battle through this year's seemingly even more stringent conditions than we faced in 2013. Sign on to Douglas Pohl's Northwest Passage Blogsite <> and to Gjoa's blog <> which is extremely detailed and will inform you in great detail of the ice charts and problems which they are facing.

***Ocean Navigator Magazine: Features our own Captain Larry Roberts article about one phase of our own trip last summer - that's in the July/August edition. Or download it by googling Ocean Navigator Magazine. or click on this link

Beautiful Lowe Inlet Anchorage
About us: We are now motoring along southward on spectacular Finlayson Channel - the traffic is very light and we have spent the last days taking turns sitting outside surrounded by the grandeur of tree-covered mountains. At night we've been in nearly deserted spectacular anchorages.

What's for lunch? I just concocted a VERY successful curry for lunch to use up the wilting spinach (we bought too much in Prince Rupert). It's a whitefish curry recipe. I used cod infused with a kaffir lime curry paste. For the paste: 3 fresh kaffir lime leaves (you can use dried soaked in boiling water)  cut into tiny pieces, 4 garlic cloves cut up, 6cm of grated fresh ginger, some red chili leaves, 1 tsp ground star anise and 1 tsp fennel seeds (blend all these together into a paste). After frying some onions, you minimally cook the cod on each side, then coat with the kaffir lime paste, add a mix of 100 ml coconut milk / 300 ml skim milk and bring this to a slow simmer. Gradually add 8oz (225 gm) of fresh spinach and cook for about 5 minutes. Serve on rice.
Don and Linda Thom on Traversay III in Kingston Ontario

Peter and Samantha
About our new friends: We were delighted to meet Samantha (Thom) Lambright and her husband Peter and their children in Prince Rupert. Their family is part of the Gitwinksihlkw Nation
where Peter is a hereditary Chief.  Currently living in Terrace British Columbia, Samantha has taken some time off from teaching while her kids are little. She's the daughter of Don and Linda Thom. Linda was an important member of our expedition to Svalbard (look back at earlier blogs) where she carried the required polar bear gun along with the gold medal she'd earned pistol shooting at the L.A. Olympic Games.
Mahini Tiare leaves Prince Rupert

We had lots of fun eating out and then singing with new friends on the 46' Hallberg-Rassy yacht MAHINA TIARE III … John and Amanda have been offshore sail-training for years and it's difficult to believe that we had not met before as they have traversed many of the same places on the globe that we have visited. They are energetic and inspiring to the already-experienced sailboat owners who enrol in their courses.

Mahini Tiare III and her large crew in Hawaii
John and Amanda captain Mahina Tiare III
In recent times it has been rare to find people who wanted to sing so Larry and I have been having a daily sing-along time of our own using TRAVERSAY III's built-in electronic piano. I needed to practice improvising and transposing into different keys (I have to practice but Larry has unmalleable Poly-tonality so he can do it naturally). Anyway, meeting up with John and Amanda and their crew: Gary, Glen, David, Steve, Peter and Jay all of whom (at least pretended) to like singing was just great. We spent 2 evenings in the activity preceded by a visit to a Japanese restaurant which we had overlooked before.

Eyes on: 'Winter in Fireland: A Patagonian Sailing Adventure' by friend Nicholas Coghlan published by The University of Alberta Press in Edmonton. I found it for my Kindle through Amazon. Nicholas is a Canadian Diplomat and he and wife Jenny have taken jobs in the war-torn countries of the world including Afghanistan and now South Sudan in Africa. During their time in the diplomatic corps they've taken several disparate years off to go sailing and made their first circumnavigation in the 80's.

His background as a teacher shines through and I recommend the book for anyone who has a confused idea about the practical "ins and outs" of how to get yourself and a boat out sailing. Nick and Jenny are of British descent and are imbued with that solid sense of history which an Oxford education seems to impart - every historical detail in the locations he describes has been meticulously researched.  He brings a sense of fun and immediacy to his writing through interviews with fishermen and other just plain folks - this is because he's trilingual in English, French and Spanish. We met them some years ago in New Zealand, and recently on Kodiak Island (look back at previous blogs for photos of Nick and Jenny and their boat BOSUN BIRD).
At 8/27/2014 20:13 (utc) our position was 53°10.67'N 128°42.48'W

Thursday, 21 August 2014

A Few Curiosities

I Colour of the water offshore in the tropics: Blue
Colour of the water offshore in temperate and cold waters: Emerald green
Reason: water in the higher latitudes is filled with krill and other microscopic organisms

II Colour of filters on our water maker in Antarctica: Pink
Colour of filters on our water maker up here: Green
Reason: The .5C degree waters of Antarctica contain a lot of krill - they're like tiny pink shrimp and form the main food of baleen (non-carnivorous) whales; Water here contains both animal and plant nutrients

III Usual colour of bird droppings needing to be cleaned off the deck: white
Colour of bird droppings in September-October in Blaine USA: purple
Reason: blackbirds and crows eat wild berries and make special trips over the marina looking for clean white decks to splatter

IV Safest place for engine flooding: Buenos Aires
Reason: This (fortunately) has only happened to us once. As the water is fresh river water (and not salty sea water) it did no permanent damage.

V Best countries for doctors: Canada (we are citizens here), Australia, New Zealand, Norway, Chile
Reasons (Canada): in Canada we have really cheap medicare; excellent doctors and open walk-in clinics
(Australia) in 2006 the cost per visit was about $50 US. I was worried about one blackhead; the doctor also examined every inch of me under magnification looking for skin cancer problems. (NZ) I needed foot surgery (2x) and this was done in a private clinic for the same cost that my friend (with her 80% Healthcare) paid in Hawaii for her 20% share
(Norway) I needed minor surgery and paid cash. The doctor cost less than the taxis to and from the Hospital
(Chile) Our sailor friend Felipe is also an orthopaedic surgeon. He treated my sore hands - injecting hyaluronic acid weekly 5x - and I had no problems for over 2 years. The cost in London for 1 treatment of cortisone was £300. Hyaluronic acid has not been approved as a treatment in North America or Mexico so my lovely doctor in Victoria injects cortisone (free).

VI Cheapest mobile phone service: Argentina; most expensive for residents: Canada; in the US: horrendously expensive for visitors

VII Where is internet easily available? Dongle worked everywhere in Norway & the UK - even in what we considered to be wilderness; wifi in marinas in Australia & UK; In the wilderness we usually have to connect with the very $$$$Satphone.

VIII Laundry facilities: Best: Argentina, Chile, Mauritius where it is cheap to get it washed for you
Most expensive: Norway; There don't seem to be any public coin laundromats - everyone has their own machines. We found the campground in Tromso that has a washer/dryer and got there by taxi. It took us 9 hours to wash 4 loads … there was no outflow valve for water distilled from the dryer
and the clothes stayed wet until we discovered the secret! In Alta our friend Rune let us use the Somby washer/dryer.

Pet Peeves: 1) Being 500nm from land and reading "Downloads are ready for your computer" When you click "Sure, go ahead" it then informs you the obvious: that it can't do it because there is no internet out there.
2) Tinned veggies and bottled hot peppers that say either: Best Before or Refrigerate after Opening
3) Frozen kumera (sweet potato) chips which say: Product must be cooked thoroughly - internal temperature needs to reach 165F as measured by a food thermometer in several spots.
Best hitchhiker: This little yellow bird (either an Arctic or a Yellow Warbler)

At 8/22/2014 02:00 (utc) our position was 54°37.45'N 133°19.52'W

Sunday, 17 August 2014

Leaving Kodiak Behind

Bosun Bird

Nick and Jenny Coghlan
Nick and Jenny on BOSUN BIRD had spent two summers around Kodiak Island and Katmai Park. They told us that typical summer weather was two or three days of easterly weather alternating with a similar period of westerly. They found their cruising plans affected somewhat by the seemingly endless easterlies that had curtailed our expected leisurely wander along the Alaska Peninsula. While our anchorages were scenic and secure, only brief intervals interrupted the ugly weather "outside".

While the winds continued contrarily from the east for a full nine days, we took advantage of a day with slightly lighter winds to reposition ourselves to Anton Larsen Bay at the eastern end of Kupreanof Strait, the channel that separates Kodiak from Afognak Islands. This narrow cleft between the two mountainous islands blocked out all memories of rough ocean waves and entertained us with the antics of numerous sea otters.

Nick and Jenny had kindly provided us with the coordinates of a safe route through the convoluted entrance into a snug landlocked pool in a corner of Anton Larsen Bay - a perfect spot to wait out the last bad weather day before our Gulf of Alaska crossing.

With its entrance well hidden, our little corner of Anton Larsen had the look of a tiny lake in cottage country. There were even a small collection of summer houses on the nearby shores. Our "idle" sunny day was much appreciated. Of course there is always work to do - I emptied, cleaned and reloaded the fridge and changed a desalinator filter while Mary Anne baked a collection of goodies to be consumed during the crossing. Oh, did I mention we were hiding from a gale? Our last night did not disappoint with 40 knots of wind moaning in the rigging and rain hammering on the deck. We were reminded once again how fine it is to be in a safe anchorage rather than at sea when serious weather is about!

Sea otter watching our departure
We departed with winds around 20 knots from the south. This strength of wind is not particularly objectionable but the left-over waves from the gale made it so. To describe the ride as "uncomfortable" would be a gross understatement. But with a much reduced wind stirring up the water, by nightfall the motion had become bearable; by midnight we were motoring through the swell with hardly any wind at all.

High pressure is building into the Gulf over the next day or two and, while it doesn't promise a lot of wind, it should give us gentle weather and a pleasant crossing. With any luck it will last us to Dixon Entrance on the BC Coast.

At 8/17/2014 13:46 (utc) our position was 58°06.02'N 149°23.08'W

Monday, 11 August 2014

Bear and Ranger Meetings

Plumose Nemone
On August 9 after two dives in Katmai National Park we moved the boat to the prime bear-viewing area … a site we'd visited with much success in 2003. August 10 was going to be 'Bear Day' … but domestic priorities intervened. Printing our dive logs and making a soup seemed more important to me and Larry cleaned and put away dive gear.

Oregon Triton with eggs
At intervals, we'd take up our binoculars and focus on the bear antics ashore. Bears seemed to be wrestling each other, splashing around in the water, chasing sea gulls, possibly catching unwary fish. Bears seemed to be digging things up and eating kelp. They were certainly unaware of the charter vessel (with 2 Guides and 6-8 passengers) about 150 feet distant and aiming enormous cannon-sized cameras at them.

However, we had a quiet confidence going here on Traversay III. We were going to eat a good lunch, dress warmly, and zoom over to within 200 feet with OUR cameras once the other visitors had departed.
We finished our work and went about the rather arduous process of getting the dinghy and motor out of the forward hold. Because of our propensity for long offshore trips in high latitudes, we keep them safely stowed. Setting them up involves a well-rehearsed and choreographed set of activities. Heavy lifting is with ropes and winches. Air into the dinghy is by means of reversing the Shop-Vac air flow. The dinghy and attached motor is then winched high up over the lifelines and carefully set in the water.
As we stood surveying the dinghy in the water we were a little saddened because while we were now the ONLY boat in the anchorage, along with the other people, the bears had also vanished. The lowest tide of the day had now passed us by. However, we took some comfort in the knowledge that when the slightly higher tide at 7pm rolled around, we would be READY! All that was needed was to hook up the fuel system and motor up near the bears.

That's when the motor refused to start and gave signs that it is dead beyond even the tender ministrations of talented mechanics. So we now have to replace the sonar transducer and the dinghy motor. Luckily, the next morning rolled around and we managed to take photos from the dinghy (Larry rowed) and from Traversay III.

And that's the source of this photo of the mother bear and cubs - they were among the 21 bears that we saw.

Mother and Cubs
We were surprised at the many changes in the Park since we were there in 2003. When we arrived, there were several helicopters buzzing around and we noticed a Ranger Hut. The rangers - Mary and Dan - came around just before our first dive. As we were having coffee we told them about our concern. Had our hull been damaged by the log we hit on our way to Katmai? We asked about changes in the Park. I learned that Katmai was designated as a National Park in 1980, there had been rangers there and the Amalik Bay hut was built in 1999. Dan and Mary were volunteers (based out of Washington State University in Pullman WA). We had not met the rangers or noticed the hut (tiny in the immense landscape) on our first visit.

We learned more about the bears. Mary and Dan had been visited (on the tiny porch of their hut) that morning by a mother and three cubs. Despite their rapping on the windows and making a lot of noise, the bears showed absolutely no awareness whatsoever. We had heard this about the penguins in Antarctica … after years of study by British observers in Port Lockroy, the many penguins have no interest in humans and ignore them as they go through their regular penguin activities.

Mary and Dan wanted to know about underwater life. They asked about some marine life they had spotted. We showed our dive logs of Alaska from the 2002 and 2003 visits and consulted 'Marine Life of the Pacific Northwest' (written by friends Andy Lamb and Bernard P. Hanby) to find that the invertebrates they wanted to know about were Plumose Anemones and Oregon Tritons.
Sunflower Star

The rangers and visitors had been finding stray sea star arms on the beach and had heard that a type of plague has been attacking stars. Was it true? They asked about clams - were their numbers reduced? We had heard this and the causes. The stars are affected by a type of virus and the sudden proliferation of the sea otters is wrecking havoc with the shellfish population. The natural predators of sea otters are seemingly only Cruiseships (who cannot even see them let alone steer to avoid them) and Man. Whales find them an unsatisfactory source of nourishment - that enormous fur coat surrounds a tiny amount of meat.
Sunflower  Star - one many color variants
We printed extra copies of our dive logs so Dan and Mary could see the healthy-looking sea stars for themselves. We saw many beautiful sunflower stars (photos will be published here in a few weeks). The Lamb/Hanby book states that this star "is the largest star on the planet and may have up to 26 arms bearing a grand total of 15,000 tube feet!" We've never personally counted more than 17 arms, but all those we saw had healthy looking arms and one was able to move off at a great rate of knots while we took the photo!

Yesterday we moved the boat across Shelikof Strait. We're now anchored near friends we met in Opua New Zealand - Nick and Jenny aboard Bosun Bird. It was a welcome treat after our various passages to have an excellent dinner and stimulating conversation aboard their boat last night.

At 8/11/2014 18:26 (utc) our position was 57°30.73'N 153°50.01'W

Friday, 8 August 2014

Katmai National Park

Our planned series of leisurely day trips along the Alaska Peninsula turned into two over-nights because of an expected northeast [i.e. contrary] blow that would leave us in a place we didn't want to be for three or four days.

Our main reason for avoiding overnight sails in British Columbia is a well-founded concern for hitting large logs floating unseen in the dark. We were not particularly worried along the Alaska peninsula though as we had not seen any floating logs at all ... there are in fact very few trees on the shore.

Thus it was a great surprise when at 2 am on our second overnight coastal hop a very solid jolt told us we had hit something in the dark. Surprises on boats most often happen at 2 am! We were motoring in a calm at the time so quickly took the engine out of gear to protect it - our boat is so slow it takes a measurable time for anything to get from the bow to the stern. A quick damage survey yielded that the power-train and propeller were fine. Then my mind drifted toward the sonar transducer sticking down from the hull beside the forward end of the keel. Could the log have hit it? Sure enough ... a few drips of water were coming in around it.

At this point, we didn't know whether we needed an emergency haul-out as soon as possible or whether we just had the financial penalty ahead of us of having to lift the boat out of the water to reinstall the loosened transducer in a seamanlike waterproof way.

To shorten this tale of woe, the truth was half way between. A quick SCUBA dive revealed that we are in no danger and that the haul-out can be delayed until southern BC; a quick test showed that it will be a NEW transducer that will be installed. The big thump turned the present one into an inert brick, albeit one still firmly attached to our hull.

The picture shows the view to seaward from our first anchorage in Amalik Bay, part of Katmai National Park. Katmai became a National Park in 1980. In the early part of the last century, it was the site of a VERY large volcanic eruption. The following paragraph from a park brochure gives an idea of the scale of the event:

Just two eruptions in historic time - Greece's Santorini in 1500 B.C.E. and Indonesia's Mount Tambora in 1815 - displaced more volcanic matter than Novarupta [Katmai]. The 1883 eruption of Krakatoa belched out just over half as much yet killed 35,000 people. The vastly isolated Novarupta's eruption killed no one. had it occurred on New York City's Manhattan Island, Robert Griggs calculated, people in Chicago would hear it plainly. The fumes would tarnish brass in Denver. Acidic raindrops would burn your skin in Toronto. In Philadelphia the ash would be a foot and a half deep. Manhattan would have zero survivors.

While ash is clearly visible on most of the mountains above our anchorage, all that volcanic stuff is not the main claim-to-fame of the park today - it is the bears! Since arriving here we have seen nine Alaska Brown Bears including three mothers with one and two cubs. These large grizzly variants are marvelous fun to watch, particularly the pairs of babies tussling with each other and trying to wear out their mothers.

Additionally, in less than three days in the park we have seen dolphins playing around our bow, sea otters floating about on their backs and a family of sleek river otters living on an island. We even found time to SCUBA dive the same island we explored underwater in 2003.

We've declared tomorrow a bear-watching day.
Geographic Harbor

At 8/9/2014 06:55 (utc) our position was 58°05.92'N 154°35.47'W