The focus of this trip was to visit Haida Gwaii once again after 24 years, and also to bring our friend Nancy along with what had promised to be a most amazing time.
We have now been able to accomplish this ... our visits to the various sites were truly memorable. We enjoyed every one of the Watchmen and the animals we encountered, and we were also gifted with nearly perfect weather. Even on the one night when we had to leave our anchored spot near Queen Charlotte Village, we actually got to motor close (but not TOO close) to what we later learned was a large tourist hotel. It had 'slipped its moorings' and was proceeding - seemingly unsupervised - to an unstable resting spot on an island very near QC Village. It must have found its way in much the same fashion that those tiny pelagic jellyfish I see make their way - being driven by the currents.
We only found out what had happened a few days later when a announcement on the ship's radio advised all boat traffic to stay a safe distance away. There were issues - such as explosions (they must have been using propane for cooking) or hazardous materials involved. We HAD noticed on the Monday that we returned to QCV that the Oil Recovery vessel we had seen in Prince Rupert and several fast RIB-loads of workers were in evidence around the village.
Now we will have rather ugly weather for a few days. We are expecting to motor for 8 hours a day so we can get to Port Hardy on Thursday, when Nancy will be leaving to go back to Ottawa.
So farewell for now - we hope you have enjoyed our latest blog entries.
Tuesday, 18 September 2018
Monday, 17 September 2018
A Great Time had by All
Courtney and Tristan |
Quigley Cove is an offshoot from Laredo Inlet. This is where
our friends Matt and Joss and Courtney’s boyfriend Tristan are currently working
on a dive Survey of the Sea Cucumber population. The survey is principally
sponsored by the Nation here in nearby Clemtu (this is who is paying them) centred in Klemtu but it has the
nominal support of the federal Department of Fisheries and Oceans. All these
young people have been well-schooled by their studies at the University
of Victoria – and this is where we met when Nancy Blackett shared a dock in
front of the Empress in Victoria four years ago.
Jocelyn. Matt, Nancy and Larry |
Both sea cucumbers
and geoducks are staples of the diet here for West Coast Nations. Her
descriptions of trying to cook and enjoy sea cucumbers (which seemed to turn
into a sludgy unappetizing mass) and the way they vacuum up the geoduck clams (who
have long fleshy siphons with foreskin-like outer coverings) were both graphic
and hilarious.
These incredibly well-trained young professionals are even
more discouraged about the state of the world than we are. Tristan – an ichthyologist
or ‘fish geek’ as Courtney calls him –
described the awful destruction and havoc caused in Chile’s marine environment
where Norwegian companies (having been shut down in their own country by
increasing public knowledge and concern) emigrated to Chile (and Canada) -
buying the cheapest and most dangerous forms of technology and causing further
damage.
If you read our blog further back (while we were diving in
Patagonia) you would read that the salmon industry in Chile had to be shut down
some years ago due to fish disease. You would also have read that all the
shellfish populations have been shut to collectors and fishermen by Red Tide. You will also note that the only coastal
fishing industry has switched to collecting the lovely ‘Centolla’ crab and
these animals were much smaller than those we saw 10 years ago, and vast
numbers seem to be sent off to Europe and North America. There seemed to be no
regulation of the crab-pots (were they emptied at the end of the season, was
there even a Season?) and there was no attempt to clean up the leftover mess
from the Salmoneras. We saw waves of These problems are also besetting Canada’s coastlines. The
Haida are among the only public body which are active in trying to stop the destruction.
If you read this, look up the *MLSS* and join it – for a small amount you can be
part of the attempt by people who really know about what is going on here.
In addition to airing their educated views about the state of the environment, we also managed to have a GREAT load of fun. It all started when – questioned
by me about dietary concerns – Matt responded by saying “We are all vegans who
drink only pure water!” He knows about my despair trying to entertain people
who each have 3 or 4 DIFFERENT food prohibitions. It turned out that they now eat everything – even if
at one time they did have vegetarian leanings. Being out in this wilderness
with limited opportunities for provisioning - they have been re- converted to conventional eating habits. On the menu were the scallops (with
white wine), a warm red cabbage salad with bacon, goat cheese and pine nuts
followed by rotini with meat sauce and Larry’s Traversay III dessert (mandarin
oranges, frozen blueberries and orange liqueur). We set out the red wine, and
it was well-used by all.
This morning we said good-by with sadness (at least on our
part). We don’t know when we will see them again.
*MLSS – Marine Life Sanctuary Society*
Saturday, 15 September 2018
The Weathered totems of Ninstints
Beams still upright from the long house |
Nancy with one of the poles |
We took many photos, but unfortunately this is the best one that I was able to 'scale down' for the blog. I will replace it when we have internet access.
Later …
Leftovers from the whaling days in Rose Harbour |
I'll go out to help Larry heft the deflated dinghy into the forward hold and the dinner will be ready at 6pm. That leaves plenty of time for Larry to do his oil change and for Nancy to attack the pile of dishes. Maybe I'll help today.
We Hit the Jackpot!
We Hit the Jackpot!
Bear in Bag Harbour |
As we returned to Bag Harbour yesterday after our trip to
Burnaby Narrows in the dinghy, Nancy spotted a black bear ashore … we were able
to get close enough to get a few photos of Himself and the smaller Herself (or
baby) which followed shortly after.
We were delighted as we had been scanning the shoreline
whenever the tide was low to see if a bear happened to be nosing along looking
for available shellfish and other edibles.
After the bears had both disappeared into the woods (perhaps
to set off over the mountain) and I still had the camera ‘at the ready’ the
clever twosome (Larry and Nancy) spotted some sea lions nearby, rearing up and
playing with each other and clearly interested in us. It was not a surprise
since on our entry Thursday night into the Bag anchorage, we spotted at least
eight sea lions gambolling in the waves in a huge and happy group. We managed
to ‘bag’ a lovely photo of a sea lion (our boat appropriately anchored in the
background).
Sea lions in Bag Harbour |
I had taken my small waterproof camera for our dinghy trip
to Burnaby Narrows. This is a narrow tidal passage that winds it’s way between
Burnaby Island and Moresby Island. When we were here 24 years ago, we were able
to take Traversay II through it. But we are much larger (especially Trav III)
and older (especially Larry and myself) now so we decided yesterday not to risk
our boat between the dangerous rocks. Nonetheless, the Captain thoroughly
prepared for our little jaunt – printing out a map and instructions from the
book: ‘The North Coast of BC’ (Douglass & Hemmingway Douglass) as the
Transport Canada directions for sailors are not accurate. A method probably
introduced thousands of years ago for navigating such a passage is used here by
the fishermen (and now boaters) who ply these waters. A series of markers and
the helmsman’s good eye-brain-hand co-ordination are used for each of the
turning points in the route. Only when the boat is moved so that the markers are
juxtaposed directly over and under each other will you be in the correct place
to avoid a collision with the rocks. Of course, one can only use this channel
at high tide when the rocks are completely hidden. Of course, by using the
dinghy we could choose to go during a falling tide so that we could see some of
the underwater life and get a few photos of the blue and orange bat seastars
and crabs.
Bat stars in Burnaby Narrows |
We had heard that Bag H was a great place for salmon fishing
(and that’s why there were bears and sea lions). Even though we don’t fish we
did eat salmon (smoked salmon sandwiches for lunch and a cooked salmon with
pasta and spicy salsa for dinner). Another vegetable was about to fail, so I
used it to make a Cauliflower and Almond creamed soup for lunch. There’s enough
of the soup to feed us at noon today, and I cooked enough salmon last night to
make sandwiches.
On our way into our current anchorage of Rose Harbour we
passed several rocks which had an immense Sea Lion Rookery. Larry’s photos have
not yet been edited, but I’m certain we’ll have some good ones. So we hit the Jackpot
as far as having contact with a lot of the animals we had hoped to see during
this trip.
We also got a chance to see and talk to a few other humans …
we were questioned by a Parks Canada patrol boat while we were at Jedway. The old
iron ore mine here was used to ship tons of ore to Japan in the mid-20th
Century. When we were here in the 1990s we went ashore just to look at the old
townsite – seeing rusted bedsprings and abandoned bicycles. Fortunately, we had
mentioned our desire to re-visit the site when we were getting our passports at
the Heritage Centre in Skidegate. Larry relayed this information to the polite
young Parks agents - they called their
Boss – and we went on our way again.
Rusty relics in Jedway |
In a short time, we’ll all have eaten breakfast and we’ll be
on our way once again. Today we will visit the most well-preserved village and
a World Heritage Site of Nanstints (formerly Ninstints on Anthony Island).
Friday, 14 September 2018
Venison Stew in Tanu and Hotsprings
Hotsprings Cove change rooms and pools |
This trip has been very different from our earlier trips. That's because I wanted to make really special food for my friend Nancy after her many years of service to her Muse - Classical music. For this magical trip to the Gwaii Haanas Park it would be possible to have some exciting cuisine. This time we have been able to store a great number of fresh vegetables and fruits. Many of them are in a hatch at the back of the boat. Unfortunately they can still get hot with the beautiful sunny weather we've been blessed with. So I usually take them out at night to chill down thoroughly under the canopy of the dodger (sprayhood for those sailing friends in London who might read this!). I had to throw out a soggy and overheated container of spinach - one lot had already been used up in a warm spinach salad - a great (but easy) - recipe in 'Whitewater Cooks'. Larry won our first of this series of cookbooks books at the Cruising Sailor's Rendezvous we attended in August. Along with losing the spinach, the mushrooms were also getting unappetizing, but they added great flavour to the stew. Alas, I'd noticed that the bosc pears were also definitely past their 'use by' date. I found a delicious salad recipe with lettuce, bosc pear, blue cheese and maple-candied pecans (also in WW Cooks) and retrieved a cold pear, kefir, cinnamon with a small splash of orange liqueur recipe from my trusty Pressure Cooker cookbook. These were ready to go on this active day. Not too many of our provisions are going to waste. I have plenty of red and green cabbage and root vegetables and Granny Smith apples laid by so we won't lack fresh vegetables. Of course, there's also a plentiful supply of limes and some lemons so scurvy will never be an issue on this vessel. It would be hard to explain missing teeth and rotten gums to our dentists and families!
On Wednesday between preparing and eating all of that, we reached the little island of Tanu (T'aanuu Linagaay in the Haida language) and found that the Watchmen had already departed for home for the Season. However, the wonderful presentation which Dee-D had given us the day before enabled us to identify many of the moss-covered wooden relics of this former stronghold of the Haida. This is where the grave of artist Bill Reid is buried under a beautiful marker and under his Haida name. When I visited here in 1994, the day was rough, windy and dark and the aspect of the island appeared dark and mystical to me - wandering amongst the ghosts of the past alone. Larry had to stay out on Traversay II while I rowed ashore. This time, we were together with Nancy and we had a brilliant day. The streaks of sunlight which managed to penetrate through the heavy mantle of spruce branches high overhead rendered a varied celebration of the colour 'Green'. A deer wandered into view, hesitated, went inland foraging and then decided that we weren't a threat and lingered to have its picture taken. We followed the path marked out by white shells. Upon discovering a 'nest' of white shells, I planted one beside the path and remembered our daughter Alice who would have loved to be with us.
That evening our anchorage was visited by six eagles whose distinctive cry drew us out to watch them scavenging on the beach.
Nancy and Sean |
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At 2018-09-14 12:55 (utc) our position was 52°20.84'N 131°21.79'W
Wednesday, 12 September 2018
K'uuna Linagaay (Skedans)
Dee-D teaching us about her culture |
Dee-D invited us to wait at the firepit near the beach, but we were sidetracked by re-meeting Jennifer and Julia on their way to the Watchmen's hut. Nancy and I had met them in the laundromat in QCV on Saturday. They filled us in on the adventures they had been having with their group. So we tagged along into the hut where watchman Eric and Dee-D finished with the group by gifting them with freshly baked cinnamon buns. We talked about whales, the Haida art that has vanished into Japanese collections and to Museums all over the world, and watched Eric weaving a tiny basket using red cedar bark strips.
Mortuary pole |
Dee-D explained how her grandmother had taught her the Haida belief: that we ALL own the earth - not just one or two of us - we are all inheritors. And afterwards, she gifted us with beautiful red salal jam and some deer which she says was thanked for all those of us who are now partaking in the meat he provided.
And today we walked through the high green forest and the mossy remains of the beautiful village of Taanu. I was on the island all alone 24 years ago. Larry had stayed out on Traversay II because it was too rough to leave the boat anchored. I rowed ashore and visited the silent green groves and the graveyard. We didn't see the graveyard today but we have read that famed artist Bill Reid (sculptor of the Jade Canoe - a centerpiece of the Vancouver International Airport) is buried in Taanu.
After we left Dee-D in K'uuna ... we saw this raven which watched until Larry took his photo ... he flew away just as we were about to depart!
-----
At 2018-09-13 04:47 (utc) our position was 52°41.56'N 131°45.86'W
K'uuna Linagaay (Skedans)
Yesterday we met some quite incredible humans. They have been spending immense spiritual and physical energy to help people from all over the world to understand the traditions which animated the Haida culture. Dee-Dee met our little dinghy on the waterfront when we towed our dinghy ashore. She was just finishing guiding a large expedition tour group along the carefully laid out pathway through the historic village of K'uuna or Skedans (that's the European name). Dee-D is one of the watchmen of the islands who teach us what it means to be of Haida origin. So far this year nearly 4,000 people will have visited this site as the tourists depart and the season draws to a close.
Dee-D invited us to wait at the firepit near the beach, but we were sidetracked by re-meeting Jennifer and Julia on their way to the Watchmen's hut. Nancy and I had met them in the laundromat in QCV on Saturday. They filled us in on the adventures they had been having with their group. So we tagged along into the hut where watchman Eric and Dee-D finished with the group by gifting them with freshly baked cinnamon buns. We talked about whales, the Haida art that has vanished into Japanese collections and to Museums all over the world, and watched Eric weaving a tiny basket using red cedar bark strips.
Then we followed Dee-D into the forest. We looked at the remains of long houses, we heard about the 'mother cedar' house supports which formerly upheld the large individual houses and the community longhouse (home of the overall birth Chief), about the funerary mortuary poles and about the potlatches (celebrations) which formed the basis of this same chief's lasting gifts to the members of his clan. The two Clans of the Haida had either the Eagle or the Raven as their emblem, and the two Clans we locked into a collaborative effort because one's house could only be built by the alternate clan. Dee-D made clear to us the impressionistic cedar art-works which had adorned the village in times past. She told us about the rebellion of the Haida people when their trees and seabeds were ruthlessly logged or despoiled and how they managed to stop the progress of 'civilization' and create the Park in collaboration with Parks Canada.
Dee-D explained how her grandmother had taught her the Haida belief: that we ALL own the earth - not just one or two of us - we are all inheritors. And afterwards, she gifted us with beautiful red salal jam and some deer which she says was thanked for all those of us who are now partaking in the meat he provided.
And today we walked through the high green forest and the mossy remains of the beautiful village of Taanu. I was on the island all alone 24 years ago. Larry had stayed out on Traversay II because it was too rough to leave the boat anchored. I rowed ashore and visited the silent green groves and the graveyard. We didn't see the graveyard today but we have read that famed artist Bill Reid (sculptor of the Jade Canoe - a centerpiece of the Vancouver International Airport) is buried in Taanu.
After we left Dee-D in K'uuna ... we saw this raven which watched until Larry took his photo ... he flew away just as we were about to depart!
Dee-D invited us to wait at the firepit near the beach, but we were sidetracked by re-meeting Jennifer and Julia on their way to the Watchmen's hut. Nancy and I had met them in the laundromat in QCV on Saturday. They filled us in on the adventures they had been having with their group. So we tagged along into the hut where watchman Eric and Dee-D finished with the group by gifting them with freshly baked cinnamon buns. We talked about whales, the Haida art that has vanished into Japanese collections and to Museums all over the world, and watched Eric weaving a tiny basket using red cedar bark strips.
Then we followed Dee-D into the forest. We looked at the remains of long houses, we heard about the 'mother cedar' house supports which formerly upheld the large individual houses and the community longhouse (home of the overall birth Chief), about the funerary mortuary poles and about the potlatches (celebrations) which formed the basis of this same chief's lasting gifts to the members of his clan. The two Clans of the Haida had either the Eagle or the Raven as their emblem, and the two Clans we locked into a collaborative effort because one's house could only be built by the alternate clan. Dee-D made clear to us the impressionistic cedar art-works which had adorned the village in times past. She told us about the rebellion of the Haida people when their trees and seabeds were ruthlessly logged or despoiled and how they managed to stop the progress of 'civilization' and create the Park in collaboration with Parks Canada.
Dee-D explained how her grandmother had taught her the Haida belief: that we ALL own the earth - not just one or two of us - we are all inheritors. And afterwards, she gifted us with beautiful red salal jam and some deer which she says was thanked for all those of us who are now partaking in the meat he provided.
And today we walked through the high green forest and the mossy remains of the beautiful village of Taanu. I was on the island all alone 24 years ago. Larry had stayed out on Traversay II because it was too rough to leave the boat anchored. I rowed ashore and visited the silent green groves and the graveyard. We didn't see the graveyard today but we have read that famed artist Bill Reid (sculptor of the Jade Canoe - a centerpiece of the Vancouver International Airport) is buried in Taanu.
After we left Dee-D in K'uuna ... we saw this raven which watched until Larry took his photo ... he flew away just as we were about to depart!
Tuesday, 11 September 2018
Leaving Queen Charlotte Village
We have had an exciting few days here.
On Saturday evening, after having visited the Interpretive Centre in Skidegate (a few miles east of QCV) a large storm broke and carried wrenching waves in from the east (which is totally exposed to those troublesome east winds). They could have wrenched our anchor out - so Larry decided we should leave immediately. Which we did in the pouring rain. We passed a large structure which looked like a hotel (no lights on, but a small motor launch parked on it's windward side). We hypothesized that it was probably the 'floating research lab' used by the many science and tech people who serve here over the summers for the jointly-operated Canadian National Parks Service and the Haida Gwaii Nation.
Yesterday, when the Captain deemed it safe to go back to QCV. we motored past it - it had travelled all the way to a small island and was snugged down at a strange angle on the shore.
We much enjoyed the orientation on Saturday given by Jodi Bissett who agreed to come in and give us the talk - along with the 'passports' which we need to carry with us whenever we are on the lands of the Haida Gwaii in the coming days. Larry and I have been here before - he in the 1980s and both of us in 1993 - but it was good to review the issues so that we can comply with all the rules for visiting this magical land.
It's early on Tuesday now, and we're motoring towards the east, preparatory to 'rouding a corner' and going into the heart of Moresby Island, where all the Woreld Heritage Sites of this Nation are centred.
So this is our last chance to post a few photos - these are of one of the totems outside the Centre in Skidegate. Each figure in this structure (see closeup) has intrinsic characteristics and meaning for the Haida Gwaii culture. They often represent the animals which are of most importance to the particular clan within the First Nation.
On Saturday evening, after having visited the Interpretive Centre in Skidegate (a few miles east of QCV) a large storm broke and carried wrenching waves in from the east (which is totally exposed to those troublesome east winds). They could have wrenched our anchor out - so Larry decided we should leave immediately. Which we did in the pouring rain. We passed a large structure which looked like a hotel (no lights on, but a small motor launch parked on it's windward side). We hypothesized that it was probably the 'floating research lab' used by the many science and tech people who serve here over the summers for the jointly-operated Canadian National Parks Service and the Haida Gwaii Nation.
Yesterday, when the Captain deemed it safe to go back to QCV. we motored past it - it had travelled all the way to a small island and was snugged down at a strange angle on the shore.
We much enjoyed the orientation on Saturday given by Jodi Bissett who agreed to come in and give us the talk - along with the 'passports' which we need to carry with us whenever we are on the lands of the Haida Gwaii in the coming days. Larry and I have been here before - he in the 1980s and both of us in 1993 - but it was good to review the issues so that we can comply with all the rules for visiting this magical land.
It's early on Tuesday now, and we're motoring towards the east, preparatory to 'rouding a corner' and going into the heart of Moresby Island, where all the Woreld Heritage Sites of this Nation are centred.
So this is our last chance to post a few photos - these are of one of the totems outside the Centre in Skidegate. Each figure in this structure (see closeup) has intrinsic characteristics and meaning for the Haida Gwaii culture. They often represent the animals which are of most importance to the particular clan within the First Nation.
A spectacular totem in a beautiful setting |
A closeup -- totem and person! |
Thursday, 6 September 2018
On the Move Again!
Smoke obscured the sun in Vancouver |
Since our last posting from Victoria (on June 1) we have reinstated ourselves into the Canadian patchwork - re-discovering (or inventing) our identity assisted by our friends and many relatives and with the help of the CBC (Canadian Broadcasting Corporation) which regularly addresses both Canada's issues within the country and our relationship with the (usually friendly - but now bullying) United States. We have visited doctors and dentists, we've renewed relationships with High School friend Kathy McLeod from Edmonton and formed new relationships with other sailors in the Bluewater Cruising Association which we joined several years ago. We attended our first 'rally' ever, and it was a LOT of fun. We have also joined the more international group of sailors who are bonded within the Offshore Cruising Club ... we are missing our chance to 'cruise' the Gulf Islands here on the coast of British Columbia with them because early in the New Year we had organized this trip.
Sailing with Hope and Darin |
Tied to Josephine and Charles dock in Garden Bay BC |
We attended a fantastic family wedding in Vancouver, sent the kids home to Ontario, and immediately set off for Prince Rupert. We left behind the red sun of Vancouver (suffering because of the large forest fires in the interior of the province) and 12 days later we arrived in Prince Rupert. On our first night at our customary dinner out after a voyage, the engaging waitress - when asked about the possibility of fires up here said "You could drench the whole of this area with gasoline and then try to light it, and it would never light because it's so wet!"
Prince Rupert waterfront |
And - indeed - even now it is RAINING outside. We are cozy and warm after a beautiful day of sun motoring down from Prince Rupert with our friend Nancy Sturdevant. She has joined us from Ottawa to spend the month. We'll be touring Haida Gwaii and then busily making our way back down to Victoria.
Nancy on Trav III in 2011 |
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At 2018-09-07 04:09 (utc) our position was 53°35.98'N 130°32.72'W
Friday, 1 June 2018
Photos from Chile
Dancers celebrate National Day on Chiloe Island |
Seno Icecap |
Cowboy at Estancia Eberhart, near Puerto Natales |
Ainsley with the cannons of the Spanish fortifications at Corral |
...at the waterfront before attending a concert in Frutillar |
In the Ultima Frontera Restaurant, Valdivia |
Sponges of Patagonia |
Pelagic heteropod in Patagonia |
Photos from New Zealand
Photos from 'Down Under'
diver cleaning wreck- burning & sinking opposite Trav in AUS |
Opera house Cake in Sydney AUS |
Kurung-Gai National Park Cowan Creek N of Sydney |
Ms. Louris Elms - Covent Garden opera diva at her 85th party |
Sign we left at Middle Percy I AUS |
Tiger Shark - Swain Reefs Coral Sea AUS |
Deb and Di on 'Ella' Australia |
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